Walking Sarn Helen with Helen: April 2017

Dolwyddelan to Miners Bridge and return by Route 2. ( circular)

This post is a bit of a re run of the last section but in reverse from Dolwyddelan back along the last used route to Miners Bridge via Ugly House and Swallow Falls. We then turned the walk into a longer circular hike by returning on the OS 17 map marked route for Sarn Helen from Miners Bridge South to Dolwyddelan. This gave Helen a chance to catch up on the bit she'd missed and it also gave us chance to compare the two routes across to Dolwyddelan from the Afon Llugwy valley.

As this walk is mainly a repeat of the previous blog we've limited the photos and explanation to the new section from Miners Bridge South. It was also pouring down again so the views were limited.

The route is shown in a picture of our maps below - taken by this weeks photographer Helen.

On this walk we also came across a small convoy of 4X4 s on the deeply rutted path across from Dolwyddelan towards Ty Capel. Sarn Helen has sections like this which are shown on OS maps as "Other Routes with Public Access" (Green dots). These sections are also shown in various guide books used by 4x4 owners who want to off road. On this occasion the drivers were friendly but seemed oblivious to the fact that they were completely blocking the path as they stopped for a break - causing a number of cyclists to dismount and carry their bikes round the cars and walkers to leave the path onto muddy banking. The drivers were also not certain that they would be able to get out onto tarmac at the end of their planned route - a real adventure for them and an inconvenience for us.

It's an interesting thought that this situation is legal unless the track is closed to vehicles by the authorities - this is a highway. All users of paths add to erosion and the need for repairs - look at any long distance walking route, but four or five heavy vehicles travelling in convoy, on an already muddy and deteriorating surface, causes a rapid change to the character of a track. The depth of the muddy puddles and water filled ruts where the bottom cannot be seen was out of the ordinary and unexpected. I stood in one by accident and found it a good 18inches deep and water came over my boots. Sometimes puddles on a muddy track cannot be avoided, I'd hate to hit one of these holes on a bike, nor would I want any of the many Dof E students we saw carrying large packs to fall or inadvertently step in!

I don't know the answer to this, it could be that there is a need for legislation ( local or national) where rights are balanced with responsibility and access limited fairly for tracks to recover. 4X4 owners have a right of access just as Walkers etc. do. The drivers today were pleasant enough and had travelled to North Wales from the SE of England for an Easter Break - a boost to the local economy maybe, and a concern if such use increases. ( Soap box section finished!!)

After we dropped into the Afon Llugwy Valley from Dolwyddelan we made the mandatory stop for Coffee and Cake at the Ugly House tea shop before we walked down to Swallow Falls to take a few pictures. After crossing the river at Miners Bridge we climbed out of the river gorge onto the main A5. At this point we cross the road onto the small lane opposite marked "Unsuitable for Motor Vehicles". Do not turn right up past the houses but continue to follow the main lane. In a short distance past the Houses on right and the entrance to Pentre Du farm left the track changes from a metalled surface to a shale and stone track - it also narrows and has gates. Follow this track as it starts to climb - easy to follow on OS 17 - SSW-

Eventually you will come to a narrow footbridge across a fast stream, just keep climbing following the track without deviating to your left or right until you reach Ty Mawr where there is another gate.

After Ty Mawr and the gate continue on the track which will continue to climb - but only gradually - before it drops a little bending round to the right then left. (You should ignore the footpath off to the left by a field gate before the bends). You should now be able to see the crest of the climb and there will be ruins on your right. This path is now well rutted and stony as it continues fairly level onto OS 18 map. The route crosses a couple of forestry track and there is a crossroads where you could be tempted to go left - don't. Go straight on onto the narrower track dead ahead.

This route is simple to follow and you will start to descend towards the main A 470, passing a Llama farm and various holiday cottages (Fron Goch). As you descend into Pont Y Pant look out for the path to your left just after a large White House - there is a stone stile to cross. Cross the stile and walk almost back on yourself through the beautiful garden of the White House until you reach the main road through a small gate. There is no pavement so be careful stepping out of the gate.

At this point we crossed the road and the river bridge towards the Station and Ledr Hall ( another café!!). Follow the station signs and the narrow road to your right. Basically its now a gentle walk following the Rail line into Dolwyddelan where we had parked.

The total walk was about five and half hours of steady walking with and extra half hour in the café at the Ugly House. We didn't use sat map so have measured the distance by map as about 11.5 miles.

Personally, having now walked both routes over from Miners Bridge to Dolwyddelan, I prefer walking via Swallow Falls, the Ugly House, and Ty Capel - and not just for the cakes. The scenery is pleasant on both routes but the walk along the Afon Llugwy is excellent. The walk from The Ugly House to Ty Capel is easy and safe but gives fantastic views of Moel Siabod ( weather permitting.)

The other route is shorter and the climb steeper - it is also marked as Sarn Helen but both routes have a claim. the choice is yours.

Miners Bridge

Afon Llugwy Miners Bridge

Cross road but don't turn right up here

Keep straight on - correct path at my left shoulder

Path swings down to right then left

llamaarama!

Holiday cottages with seat to Will the wheels

Turn left off lane through Garden to A470

emerging onto A470

Cross A470 and river bridge then turn right

Dolweddelan

Sarn Helen views

Ugly House on A5 Great cakes!

The route

This section was a about 7.5 miles from Miners Bridge in Betws Y Coed to Dolwyddelan. The forecast for the day indicated it would rain but that it would brighten up later. The reality was a fantastic day - once the first ten minute down pour had exhausted itself. This day was also a day off for Helen who was giving a talk on HM Stanley and his artist wife Dorothy Tennant in Denbigh so I was joined by Mike Costello - who is largely responsible for the better photos on this bit of the blog.

You will remember that we finished the last section in the rain and dropped down into Betws y Coed for shelter and to pick up our car. The route doesn't actually go into Betws so we started this section at a point on the A5 just to the west of the town at the Old Miners Bridge over the river. Its a good access point that enables a walker to get back onto the route shown by the LDWA and the Cicerone guide book. Having crossed the bridge there is a short but steep uphill section to a narrow metalled road. There is a choice here to walk along the road to the west or to climb further onto a path leading up to Diosgydd Uchaf. As it was still raining at this point, and the map shows the path uphill actually comes back down to the narrow metalled road we were on (after about a mile) we chose to stay on the road. This was the better choice as we had great views into the river valley to see the river in full force.

After about a mile the rain stopped and we re-joined the route of Sarn Helen proper at Diogydd Isaf - shown on OS map and in a photo.

Cicerone shows the need to do a short 50m uphill bit from here before turning left onto a path which doubles back downhill.. This was a pointless diversion as the path goes back virtually to Diogydd Isaf - where it can be seen from where we stood on the road. We simply crossed the road at Diogydd Isaf onto the path and turned downhill back towards the river on the well marked track. Keep going downhill, ignoring minor paths on right, until you come to an obvious T junction overlooking the river and turn right. (Mentioned in Cicerone). This path is a bit muddy but is well marked. It is however narrow with a fence to the left separating the walker from a steep slope into the river. This path gets narrower with a cliff on your right and the drop to your left; it does give the reward of great views down to Swallow Falls not seen by the tourists on the observation platforms on the opposite bank. The description in Cicerone is a bit complicated compared to the above and mentions a Tea Room at Allt Isaf which we didn't find. See page 50.

The marked path continues along the river with various viewing points and photo opportunities. Eventually the path meets a metalled road adjacent to an Outdoor Pursuit Centre. Turn left here and drop down to the A5 and the Ugly House Tea Room - great coffee and cakes.

From this point the walker has some decisions to make. You can follow the Cicerone guide back up the lane ( North) adjacent to the Ugly House and turn left onto a path which eventually leads back to the A5 further west near the Army training camp. The second choice is to walk along the A5 towards Capel Curig until you pass the training camp and come to the path leading down to the Stepping Stones crossing the river. We studied the map. We believed that the river was in full force and that the stepping stones crossing point would likely be underwater; we also saw that the A5 is extremely busy - with road works on the pavement - so we went for a third choice which in our view was safer and more likely to follow the line of the actual roman road ( see Cicerone).

Our choice seemed a no brainer - cross the A5 road at the Ugly house and walk across the main road bridge ( South) and then take the immediate right onto a narrow metalled road leading right towards the site of the Roman Fort Caer Llugwy (see OS map).

After a pleasant and easy walk along this quiet narrow metalled road you will come to the site of the Roman Fort on your right - its actually just a slightly raised area in a field with no public access. After a further short distance along the road you will come to a stile over the wall between you and the river - this is where the path from the stepping stones crossing comes out. We walked on in safety from traffic and with dry feet to the old chapel below Cerrig Gwynion ( now a holiday home on your left set back from the road). Alongside the old Chapel House there is an obvious track climbing south. Take this path and walk uphill away from the river. You will cross a small bridge with a gate and continue upwards. This path climbs steeply up to a height shown on our GPS as 987ft. The track then levels out across the moor and gives great views of Moel Siabod and the hills to the North behind you.

The track is shown on OS map as " other route with public access" - (green dots) and the track is obviously also enjoyed by mountain bikers and the occasional motor cross bike. . The track is still pleasant despite the ruts and is easy walking and you eventually drop down into the forest. Keep heading South on the main track and you will cross two main streams with bridges over before you come to a point where the track splits into two. This is just above Dolwyddelan and both routes will eventually take you down to the A470. We took the right hand turn ( left hand route has a lock bar to prevent vehicle access.) and dropped down towards the A470 along a steep narrowing track not suitable for vehicles - ignoring a further track off to the right which goes to a view point . The track down brings the walker out between houses on the A470 very near to the next path seen across the road. Cross over and through the small gate and cross the water meadow towards the war memorial and a small church. We finished this section at this point. It is a short distance from this point to the railway station where you can catch a bus or the train ( infrequent) back to Betws Y Coed.

This section was pleasant and an easy walk, again the Cicerone guide gives a number of options as have we. This walk was always going to rely on personal choice but I would not recommend walking for any distance along the main A5 from the Ugly House. I also would not recommend using the stepping stones when the river is high. I can however recommend the Ugly house tea room for morning coffee!.

Hopefully we will also have time in the near future to investigate an interesting secondary route from The Miners Bridge in Betws to Dolwyddelan (Cicerone page 67) Hopefully we can make a circular walk of this bit.