Llanbydder to Camarthen

Take the lane by the dairy factory in Llanbydder and turn right into a housing estate, then go behind the houses and head towards a farm.  The instructions in the guide book were correct but the gate by the barn was impossible to open so, following a discussion with the farmer, we climbed over and went up the field, over a stile, and into a field of cattle (including the bull). 

Cross the field and, at the yard at Glantenfach, the road from the west of the fortified hill, Pen y Gaer, is reached.   

Follow Glantren Lane uphill, passing a lovely B&B (Penrhiwsych Tel 01570 481981) and continue until the road becomes a gravel track.  Turn right off this at a left bend and follow a signed path along the contour to join a green lane which zig-zags down towards a stream and a farm. A footpath sign directs you across the stream and up a hill on the right side of the fence, avoiding the buildings at Cae’r Newydd.   

The track goes through fields to emerge on the lane.  The route now is over moorland where the path is indistinct.    It is almost at right angles to the road and heads up towards the end of a valley on a south south-east course, eventually reaching another lane near the summit.  

 Follow the road up the hill to where a cairn and some stones are situated.  From the summit there is a clear farm lane running in a straight line south to Bryn Llywelyn Farm.  Pass in front of the farm house and follow the track down a steep slope, bearing left to reach the stream.  Cross it by the bridge and turn left and cross a stile to join the lane going uphill.  This green lane continues through the ruins of Esgair garn and onto the road.

Turn left and, instead of taking the guide’s route by some ruins (where the path was blocked), continue along the road to a cattle grid.  Turn right over the moorland to another cattle grid and then turn right on the road to reach the broad entrance to the forest named Tower (though the tower doesn’t exist).  

This forest also has a windfarm which has resulted in some changes to paths and tracks.  The track from the entrance continues for about a mile to a junction where a track from the left is joined.  This opens up to a wide space and turbines can be seen on the right.

Follow a narrow track to the left dropping down hill to cross a stream then climb up the other side to a crossroads and a clearing.  Keep to the left of this and join a wide track coming from the right.  Follow this left to another wide clearing and crossroads. 

 Go straight ahead for a short distance taking a narrow path to the right through the trees.  This can be blocked in places by fallen trees but it eventually emerges by a gravel track and a stile.  Cross the stile and bear west across the fields, keeping the fence on the left.    
This path eventually drops down a slope and reaches the ruins of a building. There are signs but it can get overgrown.  Drop down to the stream at the left of the ruins and cross the stream, heading downstream on the other bank until it is joined by another stream.  Cross the stream by a bridge and climb up the bank to reach a higher level path following the valley.  This leads over a stile and through meadow land where the track runs between the field and the trees.   

Follow this pleasant valley along the contour, passing some ruins before crossing a stream and then losing some height.  This path curves round to overlook Alltwalis Farm. 

There were problems finding a way through the farm and round the official path at the rear as the access to the track to the main road were blocked by fallen trees and vegetation.  After correspondence with Jason Lawday of Camarthenshire  CC’s Countryside Recreation and Access Unit, this section, and others in Camarthenshire, will hopefully be more accessible provided that people walk them.  It is possible to catch buses to Camarthen here as there is nowhere to eat in the vicinity.  Buses were hourly on weekdays but there’s only one every three hours on Sundays.

The distance from Llanbydder to Alltwalis was over 14 miles.

To continue towards the end of the route, take the first left lane off the main road and follow it to some converted mill buildings.  Turn left and go through a gate on the right leading up through a field, heading for the top left corner which leads into a wood with a stream.  Follow the stream and climb up, taking a right turn to climb over the fence before the path ends at a new higher fence with no stile.  Follow the path round and continue uphill through another field, heading for the sheds of Lan-clyn-Adda farm and a gate leading onto the farm lane.  Follow this until a wooden gate (which may be open) is reached and a green lane bears into the wood on the left.  Take the green lane through the woods dropping steeply down to a lower level but staying above the floor of the forest.  This section was so overgrown that it was necessary to cut down through the woods to reach the forest track at the bottom of the hill but, hopefully, this won’t be necessary in future.   

At the lane, turn sharp left and then turn right to a gate in the hedge which looks across the field to the church of Llanllawddog.  Cross the field and enter the gate into the churchyard.  On the other side of the church, follow the lane that heads south south-west next to the church carpark.  This leads to Nantcwmgwili farm where a path enters a field on the right and bears left, following the contour, through more fields and towards the main A485 road at Pontarsais, five miles north of Camarthen and about a mile or so south of Alltwalis.

The rest of the route in the Sarn Helen guide was described as having a number of access issues but, with support from the Countryside Recreation and Access Unit, hopefully a new route, more closely linked to the original Roman road, can be found to enable walkers to enjoy the beautiful scenery of this county and complete the long distance route from Caerhun.
We hope that more walkers try and enjoy this wonderful route